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Majnu Ka Tilla is Delhi's Tibetan enclave, and the thing to do is eat your way through it. Start with laphing, a cold, translucent pancake tossed in red chile paste, sold near the neighborhood monastery. Move to the Himalayan restaurant for momos and shabaley, big deep-fried pastries that reward the detour. Finish at Ama cafe, where students linger over tea and cake. The whole loop costs almost nothing and explains why momos conquered the city.
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