Umngazi Hotel & Spa

Bungalows at the mouth of the Mngazi River, close enough to the beach that you can hear it. This long-running Wild Coast resort recently traded its purely rustic identity for something more layered, with rooms that mix traditional construction and contemporary design. A kids-only dining room keeps the main restaurant civilized, which is either considerate or genius depending on your travel companions. Spa, birding, fishing, river cruises: the activities list is long.