UNÇA

A contemporary Catalan restaurant tucked under the stone arches of Banyoles's medieval Plaça Major, where the minimalist interior makes a quiet argument with the thousand-year-old surroundings. The name nods to the old unit of weight used for buying food in bulk, which sets the tone: unpretentious, rooted, and a little literary. A short à la carte and a weekday set menu keep the kitchen focused, with a young team and chef Alba Hugas running the show.

One honor, in evidence: