Une

A seventeenth-century grain and olive oil mill in a hamlet so small and spring-fed that the old Umbrian word for water became the restaurant's name. This is a tasting-menu destination, one Michelin star, where the chef works almost entirely with produce grown within about twenty kilometers, then applies enough technique to make you stop mid-bite. The wine list leans natural, biodynamic, and small-production, which fits the room's unhurried, rural romance perfectly.

One honor, in evidence: