Updown Farmhouse

A converted grade II listed farmhouse in Kent countryside, Updown is a restaurant with rooms where everything hits the wood fire in an open kitchen. The menu tilts Italian, kept deliberately short, and changes with whatever the land and season allow. Ruth Leigh, daughter of Rowley Leigh, and her partner run it with a looseness that feels earned rather than lazy. The wine list follows the same logic: producers they love, a few local vineyards, no padding.

Two honors, in evidence: