Versaen

A former butcher's shop in the small walled town of Ravenstein, Versaen holds a Michelin star and earns it through restraint rather than theatrics. The chef works with a handful of elements and lets them settle into place, French technique pulling toward Mediterranean warmth and the occasional Eastern note. Regional suppliers show up in the cooking in ways you actually notice. Quiet room, focused kitchen, and food that makes simplicity look difficult.

Two honors, in evidence: