Villa Retiro

A 200-year-old ficus tree has grown so deep into the building that its roots are now part of the walls and the well, which sets the tone for a Michelin-starred restaurant where the landscape is always the subject. Chef Fran López runs tasting menus rooted in the Ebro Delta, its rice, its poultry, its shellfish and seaweed, served on objects and figures that gesture at the region's landmarks. It's a lot, charmingly so.