Vol-Ver

Sébastien Verveken holds a Michelin star out of a handsome brick room in Kortrijk, where the cooking is quieter than you'd expect and more confident than it looks. This is a contemporary French restaurant that leans on subtlety over spectacle, folding in Asian touches without making a fuss about it. The beer and non-alcoholic pairings sit alongside the wine list, which is a rarer offer than it should be.

One honor, in evidence: