Wan Thai Food

Wood panels, bamboo, lanterns, and Buddha statues set the scene at this Thai restaurant in Châtelet, which leans into a street-food aesthetic without cutting corners on the cooking. The menu runs long and classic, with the kitchen turning out freshly made dishes and sauces that do most of the persuading on their own. The Michelin Guide has given it a Bib Gourmand, which tracks for a place where the food is the whole point.

One honor, in evidence: