Where there's Smoke

The smoke hits you before you've even sat down, which is either a promise or a warning depending on your feelings about coal-fired cooking. This modern British restaurant in a pretty North Yorkshire market town runs a seasonal set menu built around whatever prime produce suits the embers that week. The chef also happens to be a potter, so the cheerful room comes lined with his own ceramics, and yes, he made the tabletops too.

One honor, in evidence: