Wilford T

The restaurant shares a building with Wilford X, a working exhibition gallery, and the art stays on the walls rather than the plates, though the chef does finish dishes tableside if the mood strikes. It's a modern French dining room with the calm, spare feel of somewhere that takes ingredients seriously, pairing them in combinations that sound odd on paper and tend to work in practice. The crowd arrives expecting to be surprised, which is usually the point.

One honor, in evidence: