Wirtshaus Zur Säge

Old ceiling beams and wood paneling set the scene at this Michelin-starred country inn, where classic French cooking leans hard on what's in season. The kitchen's sauces are the tell, the kind that take all day and remind you why French technique has staying power. In summer the vine-shaded terrace under a chestnut tree pulls everyone outside. A husband-and-wife team runs the room with the sort of quiet attentiveness that makes a long lunch feel like a reasonable life choice.

One honor, in evidence: