Yayo Daporta

The stone building was a royal hospital once, which explains the vaulted ceilings and the sense that something serious is happening here. This Michelin-starred restaurant in Cambados puts the Galician coast at the center of everything: mussels, barnacles, razor clams, and seaweed pulled from waters just outside. The chef grows his own produce and lets the Rías Baixas do the arguing. Albariño even finds its way into dessert, which is either inspired or inevitable, depending on where you're sitting.

One honor, in evidence: