Zimmerl

Four tables, a name that translates roughly to "little room," and a 23-course tasting menu that runs four hours in a quiet corner of the Waldviertel. This intimate fine dining spot holds a Michelin star and runs French technique through local Austrian ingredients with a persistent Japanese lean. The room is dim and unhurried, and the kind of place you would expect only in a major city, which makes stumbling onto it here feel mildly surreal.

One honor, in evidence: