The Best Seafood Near Notes, by the Record

1. Michelin Guide Bib Gourmand

The Gillardeau family, whose oysters appear on menus across France, runs this seafront restaurant in Marennes, which gives the oyster course a certain credibility you can't manufacture. It's a roomy, light-filled dining room with a panoramic terrace for sunset and a suspended fireplace for when the Atlantic wind reminds you what month it is. The menu leans into local catch and shellfish, with the chef folding in spiced, farther-flung influences that keep things from feeling too solemn.

1. Michelin Guide Selected Restaurant

1. Michelin Guide Bib Gourmand

Pierre Gagnaire's seafood-forward fine dining restaurant sits above the Atlantic with a view that makes it hard to concentrate on the menu, which would be a shame. The kitchen pulls heavily from the local coast, pairing shellfish and seaweed with precise sauces and jus in the kind of elegant, elaborately composed dishes Gagnaire is known for. The wine list runs deep, and the pours come from magnum bottles, because of course they do.

1. Michelin Guide Selected Restaurant

1. Michelin Guide Selected Restaurant