The Best Seafood Near Waketokuyama, by the Record

Shellfish devotion drove the chef here, and the menu reads like a personal manifesto: crab and prawn in every direction, some following kaiseki tradition, others veering French, including a hair crab terrine that would feel at home in Lyon. A Michelin-starred seafood restaurant in Shinjuku, snug and perpetually booked. Portions run generous, presumably because the chef worries you haven't had enough crab yet, and the meal closes with crab and vegetables over rice in an earthenware pot.

1. Michelin Guide 1 Star