The Best Steakhouses Near Il Doretto, by the Record

Dario Cecchini, the butcher-philosopher of Panzano who once staged his own funeral to protest EU meat regulations, runs this fixed-menu steak restaurant where the experience begins outside, with Cecchini himself wishing every table bon appétit. The meat arrives cooked to medium rare, no negotiations, and the sides are fresh and well-considered. Hours are fixed, the cost is fixed, and the only real variable is how quickly you make friends with whoever's sitting next to you.

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