The Best Sushi Near Babar Restaurant, by the Record
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A curtain rises to dramatic music before the meal even begins, which tells you everything about the register of this omakase counter. Twenty-plus courses move from chawanmushi through nigiri made with fish you may not recognize alongside cuts you absolutely will, including otoro and Hokkaido uni. The pacing is relentless in a good way, and the theatrics are sincere rather than silly, which is a harder trick than it sounds.