The Best Sushi Near Ruhe, by the Record

Eleven red-upholstered seats wrap an L-shaped counter in a hotel dining room that seats exactly two sittings a night, which tells you everything about the pace. This is an omakase sushi bar, and the chef relocated from Japan to run it himself, walking guests through each course with the kind of unhurried attention that makes a short menu feel like a long evening. A tight list of wines, champagne, and sake rounds things out.

1. Michelin Guide Selected Restaurant

Thirteen seats at an L-shaped basement counter, all filled at once, because this is an omakase restaurant that runs on two sittings and waits for nobody. The chef opens each evening by walking through the day's fish before a single piece is sliced, which either sounds like your idea of a good time or it does not. Sake, wine, or a non-alcoholic pairing runs alongside the procession of small courses.

1. Michelin Guide Selected Restaurant