The Best Sushi Near Somm, by the Record

A beaded curtain inside Sushi Masters leads to a 12-seat counter where Vaidas Užgerys runs a three-hour omakase, roughly 14 courses, with the day's ingredients laid out for inspection before anyone picks up chopsticks. The rice from Niigata is seasoned with red wine rather than vinegar, the fish comes largely from Spain, and the chef treats both of those choices as completely normal, which somehow makes them more convincing.

1. Michelin Guide Selected Restaurant