The Best Sushi Near Spis, by the Record

Thirteen seats at an L-shaped basement counter, all filled at once, because this is an omakase restaurant that runs on two sittings and waits for nobody. The chef opens each evening by walking through the day's fish before a single piece is sliced, which either sounds like your idea of a good time or it does not. Sake, wine, or a non-alcoholic pairing runs alongside the procession of small courses.

1. Michelin Guide Selected Restaurant