1919 at The Cottage in the Wood

On a clear day, the terrace here looks out over a sweep of English countryside that makes it hard to focus on the menu. This is a smart Modern British restaurant inside a Malvern Hills hotel, running both a tasting menu and an à la carte built around ingredients like Exmoor caviar and Evesham asparagus. The cooking wears its Britishness without apology, and the pace of service keeps the whole thing feeling relaxed rather than stiff.