Albergaccio di Castellina

Stone walls and Chianti hills visible through the windows set the scene at this old-school Tuscan restaurant, where the kitchen takes traditional recipes and nudges them, carefully, into something more contemporary without losing the plot. The room carries the weight of the building without feeling like a museum, and the front-of-house guides wine choices with the sort of quiet authority that makes you feel like you chose well yourself.

One honor, in evidence: