Allemansgeest

A converted farmhouse on the Vliet canal, where boats drift past the terrace and you can apparently arrive by water if you happen to own a boat. Inside, it's cosy and stylish in equal measure, the kind of balance that usually proves elusive. The kitchen turns out modern French cooking with the occasional exotic nudge, lobster soup and beef fillet done properly. Choosing between the carte and the set menu is a genuine small dilemma, which is a pleasant problem to have.

Two honors, in evidence: