Allt Yr Afon

A pistachio soufflé, properly risen, tells you most of what you need to know about a kitchen. This six-table restaurant sits inside a country hotel better known as a wedding venue, which means it runs quietly under the radar in the far southwest corner of Wales. The short à la carte follows the seasons and leans on local suppliers, and the team brings the kind of focused attention you'd expect from a room that small.