Ardor

A charcoal grill sits at the center of things at this smart modern brasserie in the heart of St Ives, sending Mediterranean intent into a room that could easily coast on Cornish seafood alone. The menu leans toward sharing, with the kitchen folding harissa, aioli, and garlic yoghurt into local catch. Grab a lower-floor table if you want to watch the cooks work, and let someone talk you into starting with the sherry flight.

One honor, in evidence: