Auberge de Monceaux

Terracotta tiles and old beams set the scene at this country restaurant in a small village north of Paris, where two sisters run the room and their partners run the kitchen. The cooking is seasonal and modern, the kind where a smoked trout starter sits comfortably next to a classical braise. The menu rotates often enough that regulars have a reason to keep coming back, which they do.

Two honors, in evidence: