Auberge Le Prieuré

The terrace faces a Romanesque priory across the square, and the ancient plane trees do most of the decorating. This one-Michelin-star country inn sits in a tiny village between Bordeaux and Toulouse, and the chef's cooking keeps surprising you: modern French technique with genuinely odd, confident pairings that shouldn't work as well as they do. The room is quiet, the stone walls are old, and nobody's in a hurry about anything.