Balm - La Pistache

The terrace looks out over the mountains, which goes some way toward explaining why you need to book well ahead. This is the classic French restaurant inside Hotel Balm, where the cooking is old-school and deliberate, built on good ingredients rather than clever plating. The menu runs three to five courses, and the Chateaubriand is meant for two, which tells you something about the mood. The wine list is carefully put together.

One honor, in evidence: