Bistro Gourmand

The stone facade belongs to a distillery, but the bistro inside is its own affair entirely. Chef Matthieu Chalmagne reworks Gallic classics in a bistronomic register, adding playful touches while keeping the menu on a reassuringly familiar keel. The veal stew with Melba toast and a Madras curry gravy is the kind of dish that sounds like a joke until you taste it. Creative French cooking that still takes hunger seriously.