Caffè La Crepa

A trattoria that has been anchored to a Renaissance square since what feels like forever, its interiors a pleasing jumble of Art Nouveau curves and mid-century odds and ends. The kitchen works the Po Valley's greatest hits: stuffed marubini in broth, culatello, boiled meats with house-made mostarda. Earns a Michelin Bib Gourmand for exactly this kind of unfussy regional cooking done with care. A small shop sells provisions for the ride home.