Caino

Bread stuffed with house ricotta and their own olive oil arrives before you've opened the menu, which tells you everything about how this two-Michelin-starred restaurant in a tiny stone village thinks about hospitality. The chef's cooking is rooted in Maremma, unsentimental and un-fussy, the kind that trusts a charcoal-grilled lamb or a bowl of gnudi to do the talking without any architectural assistance. The cellar runs to around 2,500 labels.

Two honors, in evidence: