Cibus

Barrel-vaulted ceilings and a courtyard tucked under old stone porticoes set the scene at this Apulian trattoria in Ceglie Messapica's old town. The kitchen works through regional recipes with the kind of conviction that makes a menu hard to navigate quickly, in the best sense. The Michelin Guide has given it a Bib Gourmand. Book ahead; the locals already know about it, and they got there first.

Two honors, in evidence: