Dorset

A stately villa on the main street of Borne houses this French restaurant, where the lounge mood and terrace greenery make the room feel more relaxed than the cooking's ambition might suggest. The chef pairs regional lamb with beetroot, celeriac, and mustard in ways that hit earthy, sweet, and sharp in the same bite. Local produce does a lot of the heavy lifting, though exotic seasonings turn up when the mood strikes.

Two honors, in evidence: