El Portal de Echaurren

Five generations of the same family have run this restaurant in the small Riojan town of Ezcaray, and Francis Paniego holds two Michelin stars while cooking food that still feels like it belongs here. Two tasting menus move through sequences named Territorio, Animal, and Memoria, offal and all, with the technique dialed up without the roots dialed down. His brother runs the room, which keeps things feeling like a family dinner, just an unusually accomplished one.