Enoteca San Nicola

Three snug rooms in a former convent, walls hung with lively paintings and vintage odds and ends, serving the kind of traditional Emilian cooking that makes you wonder why you'd eat anywhere else in the valley. The menu is short by design, four choices per course, rooted in local tradition with the occasional playful detour. The wine list runs to a thousand labels, with vertical selections that will delight anyone who takes that sort of thing seriously. Michelin Bib Gourmand.