Epona

Named for the Gallic goddess of travellers and abundance, this warm, rustic restaurant sits on the road between Valence and Montélimar, which tells you exactly who it feeds. The chef describes his own cooking as rustic and warm, which takes some confidence. Menus lean seasonal and local, with proper jus and careful plating. Lunch means a single daily menu; evenings open up a short à la carte alongside the set menu. It holds a Michelin Bib Gourmand.

One honor, in evidence: