Fossé Saint Ange

A varnished wooden façade on a street in the planned Renaissance village Cardinal Richelieu built, which sets a certain mood before you've even sat down. Inside it's a warm, unfussy bistro where the seasonal menu shifts often enough that regulars have a reason to return. The cooking stays grounded and simple, then throws in the odd left-field touch to keep things interesting. A Michelin Bib Gourmand, and the desserts have a reputation of their own.

One honor, in evidence: