Gojo Genbei

The chef visits the farms first, then figures out the menu. This Japanese restaurant in Gojo's old-town Shinmachi district keeps Kinki-region producers at the center of everything, from the vegetables that become ohitashi and fried dishes to the beef and chicken sourced straight from local farmers. Regional sake, miso, and soy sauce complete the picture. The building fits the neighborhood, which is the kind that makes you slow your pace without meaning to.

One honor, in evidence: