Harrisons Restaurant

Modern British cooking in tropical Far North Queensland sounds like a concept that shouldn't work, yet here it is, pulling two Australian Good Food Guide Chef Hats. The menu leans on classical technique while letting the surrounding reef-and-rainforest produce do the talking. It's a proper sit-down restaurant, unhurried and polished, the kind where the beverage list gets as much attention as the kitchen. Port Douglas's special-occasion default for anyone who knows the town.

One honor, in evidence: