Hirschen

The chicken hearts arrive with pumpkin and finger-shaped potato dumplings, which tells you roughly where this regional restaurant in the Bregenzerwald stands: nose-to-tail, locally sourced, and not especially interested in playing it safe. The setting is all wood-panelled parlours and old-inn warmth inside a hotel that has been around forever. Winter fermentation projects run alongside a vegetarian side that the kitchen takes as seriously as the meat.

One honor, in evidence: