Hosteria La Cave Cantù

A modern Italian restaurant set inside an old monastery, with a wine cellar dining room and a courtyard terrace when the weather cooperates. The chef cooks personal, Italian-rooted food with the occasional South American lean, a nod to his Ecuadorian wife, who runs the front of house and keeps the wine list unusually interesting. Colorful, generous plates in a setting that makes the slightly out-of-the-way drive feel like exactly the point.

One honor, in evidence: