Inkiostro

The bread arrives before you've decided anything, and it's the kind that makes the rest of the meal feel like it has something to live up to: sourdough baked in a cast-iron pot, serious crust, improbable lightness. This is a Michelin-starred creative restaurant in a city that takes its food very seriously. The chef pulls from an international background to build menus that feel personal rather than academic, the wine list stretches to sake and craft beer, and Parma's culinary ego is cheerfully, quietly challenged.