Jagawirt zu Aumbach

A renovated Bavarian farmhouse up in the hills, wood-paneled and hung with hunting trophies, doing something more interesting than the decor might suggest. The kitchen pairs regional roots with a loose hand, so venison the team hunted themselves might share the menu with tonkotsu ramen. It reads like a dare that works. Book ahead; locals have clearly figured it out.

One honor, in evidence: