La Licorne Royale

The dining room of this Michelin-starred restaurant in Lyons-la-Forêt sits inside a building that's been around forever, its Napoleonic interior doing absolutely nothing to suggest irony. The cooking is precise and rooted in Norman terroir, with vegetables from organic growers and farm-raised meat getting the kind of punchy, concentrated sauces that make the sourcing worth the conversation. A garden terrace softens the formality if you need it.

One honor, in evidence: