La Malvasía

Horses still outnumber cars on the sandy streets of El Rocío, which tells you something about what kind of place this is. La Malvasía is a rustic-feeling hotel on the edge of Doñana National Park, with timber ceilings, tiled floors, and mornings that begin with migratory birds rather than an alarm. The marsh is right there, the beach is close, and the pace is the kind you have to actively resist.