La Mer

North Sea ling cooked in nut butter with lobster ravioli gives you the measure of this sleek French restaurant on Norderney: classical technique with just enough contemporary edge to keep things interesting. The bright, pared-down dining room sits beside a large window façade, and the terrace outside makes good use of the island light. It's a polished room that earns its place on an island better known for mudflats than fine dining.

One honor, in evidence: