Le Café Magdeleine

A centuries-old manor house in Gémenos, with a terrace shaded by plane trees that have been there longer than anyone can remember. Inside, the exposed timber ceiling gives it the feel of a very elegant barn, which somehow suits the traditional bistro cooking perfectly. The menu is short enough that you'll genuinely agonize over it, which is a good sign. Warm, unfussy service rounds out a meal that feels like Provence doing what it does without making a fuss about it.