Le Central

Profiteroles filled with mustard ice cream signal what kind of brasserie this is: a place where the menu changes daily and traditional French cooking gets quietly, cheerfully subverted. The Troisgros family runs it out of a vintage hotel space with warm, retro bones, and the room is almost always full. A concise menu plus a few à la carte options keep things moving at a pace that matches the relaxed, smart-casual mood.