Le Coq aux Champs

A rooster-in-the-fields kind of name for a country restaurant that turns out to be quietly serious, with a bright, spare interior, a terrace overlooking a manicured garden, and an open kitchen where the chef works with the precision of someone who finds a short ingredient list more interesting than a long one. The food is creative French, one Michelin star, and built around local Condroz produce, with sweet-sour balances and sauces that do most of the talking.

One honor, in evidence: